That was interesting, I had a real test of my endurance, having a Monday last 48 hours and managing to get through the entire day without falling over. I think I'm getting better, hurray! Though, in sad news, I've stopped eating as much, and started exercising (five days a week I run at some point in the day, when I wake up I do some basic stretches, push-ups and sit-ups/crunches and on the weekends I do weight training alternating light and heavy loads on the two days). When I first started all this, I weighed in at 256, then dropped to 248 within three weeks which pleased me to no end; then suddenly I rocketed back up the following month and have now been stuck at a constant 260.....I'm confused and even a little discouraged but to hell with it, I'm feeling damned better and that's what I care about!
Also, for those that would like to note....ONE MONTH TILL D-DAY! I have one month left and then the doc spells out my fate, and then I have a whole new beast, military bureaucrats, to deal with but I'm volunteering to deal with them. January is just one more hurdle among many more to come; lately I've been having my own set of worries and concerns, I wonder if I want this beyond reason and to the point that it might be more hurtful than helpful...but I do want this, and I think that no matter what happens, this will be a critical stage in my growth regardless of the outcome. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for being around and there, sorry if I haven't returned the favor in spades, but thank you still.
Okay, now to go on the main course.
Australia was a wonderful time of it, though I'm told that Sydney is more or less the only really big city and the other are more just suburban sprawls, anyways, Sydney itself is a lot like LA in that there are individual cities within the Sydney area and all together they comprise greater Sydney. It was really fascinating to study it all on a map. We got in last Friday, and caught a taxi to our hotel (my sisters, mostly Briseis, are the pissiest traveling partners, having a good time around them is like bringing a hyena to dine with the Queen) and the entire ride my eyes were darting all over the place, I'd slept almost the entire 12+/- an hour flight and was so well rested I was practically bouncing in the car much to our cabby's distress, poor guy!
I'd like some feed back from my other internationally traveled friends, what's the first thing you notice in another country? For me it was the cars, it was the scenery, the people, or the places, but the cars and how different they are from what you find in America that caught my eye, they and all their variations could comprise an entire post but I won't go into that more than to say I was delighted in identifying and cataloging all the models I saw. My sisters were more than a little miffed by my enthusiasm.
We reached our hotel and went exploring almost immediately (there was a brief delay as we waited for our luggage) and found a relatively cheap (nothing is cheap in Australia, but there is no sales tax so it evens out I guess) cafe to eat at. That is something for all those that travel, in Australia (and I'm told in England, so I imagine it to be true of many Commonwealth nations) a cafe is usually a place for sandwiches and drinks (surprisingly non-coffee kinds), while a bar is a coffee shop and a pub is a bar/restaurant. I also learned the hard way that asking for lemonade gives you a strange fizzy soda-ish drink instead of squeezed lemons.....I didn't even bother trying to ask for actual lemonade after I realized this and settled for the strange fizzy-ish soda thingy. During our explorations, we decided to head up, as that should give us the best view of the place, we found a weird castle-like structure and what appeared to be a park, but I got distracted when I realized that going downhill to the left lead to the harbor, and you know me, I can't resist the sea so away we went.
Surprisingly we didn't make it to the harbor though, we found a bridge and a very narrow stairway leading up to it and made our way up and onto the span. We got an excellent view of the harbor and ferry terminals from there and eventually we went down via a big glass elevator to walk along the harbor side. Eventually we bumbled into the Sydney Opera House, which started a trend that lasted the entire trip, my perceptions of things not meeting the reality of them. The Opera House is actually much smaller than I thought it would be, it is still very impressive though, looking out from the house you can see Fort Dennison (more on this later) off to the windward side and leeward is the Sydney Harbor Bridge which we have over two dozen pictures for some reason (it really caught our eye). After dicking around at the Opera House for a bit we noticed a park to windward of it and wandered over there to find it was the Sydney Botanical Gardens (there is a sign inviting you to:"....walk on the grass, hug and talk to the trees...."), after purchasing some ice cream for the three of us we entered and explored the various plants and wildlife. The Gardens are apparently a massive sprawl, and if the maps I've looked at are accurate we only explored about a third of it which surprised me because we walked a lot through there.
We eventually found ourselves back at that castle-like structure that I mentioned earlier, we'd managed to go in a relative circle, and as Briseis was beat we ourselves beat a retreat to the hotel where we loitered for a half-hour before Jill and I concluded this to be a waste of our time and struck out again while Briseis napped. Jill and I headed down to the opposite end of the harbor, around the dock called Circular Quay, heading towards the Harbor Bridge from there. We found the area called The Rocks, which is one of the oldest portions of Sydney. Its a tightly packed neighborhood that is dominated by shops and cafes in tightly packed alleys and the like. Jill and I spent hours exploring it and finding a place for dinner there even before we made our way out to the wharf opposite the Opera House. We spent over an hour just sitting there looking out at the Harbor and its environs. It was really enchanting and we took a lot of pictures (need to hoist those out in facebook sometime). We eventually went back (towards evening) and found Briseis, dragging her out to the Italian place we'd found for dinner, and then we explored the outdoor market that wound through the alleys and streets before we finally headed back to the hotel for the night.
I should mention that it was during this time that I was able to discover the answer to a nagging question: what is the First Fleet? The answer to this question had been bothering me the entire time we wandered through Sydney as everywhere there was mention of 'The First Fleet' and I had no idea what it was and yet it seemed to be some prominent aspect of the culture. I discovered thanks to a monument in The Rocks that the First Fleet was the original fleet that first sailed into what would become Sydney Harbor and established the original Penal Colony in 1788. I love the reason why Australia was originally colonized, the English needed a new place to put its criminals having just lost the American Colonies. It was concluded that Australia would serve nicely. So in a strange twist, the first settlers in Aussie land were convicts and their jailers, both groups were eventually granted land and thus the future of a nation was born.
I went to sleep around 8-ish, the girls stayed up a little later but didn't leave the hotel room. We woke up (or I did) early the next day and packed quickly so we could go meet Helen at her hotel. We traveled across town to Darling Harbor, our new staying spot. After bunking down we went out and explored a bit, finding the Sydney Aquarium, the Wildlife Center, and the Maritime Museum all neatly situated in the area. On the flight to Sydney, I met an Aussie who gave me advice about the area, saying that we should avoid the New Town and Red Foam areas, as they were the bad parts of the city and not safe, especially towards evening and night time. We didn't have any call to go there though, and after catching some breakfast we met back up with Helen and embarked on a ferry ride out into the harbor, the Toronga Zoo being our goal.
The ferry ride was fun, we had a great tour guide who was really vibrant and lively, after embarking from the Aquarium we headed out to Circular Quay, people debarked and embarked and then we were off again. I spent most of the trip with my head sticking out the window like a dog snapping pictures of the harbor and everything else that caught my interest. The next stop was at Fort Dennison (remember that place?) The fort sits on a sandstone island out in the harbor and was built in 1841 to defend against incursions, ostensibly the fort was built to fend off Russian aggressors during the Crimean War. However the real reason was because in 1839 two American warships sailed into Sydney Harbor (the precursor, ironically, to what would become a tradition in the 20th century) unopposed scaring the scheisse out of the Governor-General. The fort has been in constant use in one form or another since 1855 and now serves as a tourist stop (whenever I get back to Sydney I will go there).
We finally made our way out into the greater waterway and headed towards the zoo, again my head was out the window as I snapped pictures of everything I could, the area is really beautiful and I'm afraid I would fail to describe it accurately. We reached the zoo and the most amazing thing happened, we found ourselves going from the ferry to a gondola that took us up and over the zoo, an aerial tour over the center of the place. My first view of the zoo really stunned, it was gorgeous and really amongst the zoos that I have seen, Toronga has now assumed a rank alongside Denver, Houston, and San Diego. After disembarking from the gondola we acquired tickets for what was called the 'Koala Encounter' since we had time to kill, we went first to see the wombats and platypus, sadly the latter was not in evidence but we did find the wombat (and again my perceptions were surprised) I always saw wombats as small dog sized animals. However that is not how large they actually grow. Full grown wombats can be the size of medium sized dogs and are apparently nasty and very resilient creatures. They regularly survive cars hitting them and the cars are usually more damaged than the wombat which I was told 7 out of 9 times walks away from the crash.
After that little discovery we went to our encounter, and it was a moment to remember, we were allowed into the koala enclosure and though we couldn't touch them, we were able to stand in the enclosure with the koalas, we got a five month old baby and her mother. The mother slept for most of the time until she woke up and spent the rest of the time glowering at us while the baby clambered all over the place and seemed quite pleased with our presence. I will never forget having a baby koala try to sit on my head! That will teach me to be six feet tall! They were really adorable, and if they'd let us, I'd have stayed there all day and gotten to know the pair, but there was a time limit so we had to toddle off. Our next stop was with the kangaroos and wallabies, surprisingly they are in an open exhibit and are free to move around the path with the people! It was really funny watching them sit around as we walked THROUGH their exhibit, the shocker though was the lone emu in the exhibit, I about had a heart attack when it got up and squawked at me (it had been in amongst some trees so I had no idea it was there). After the initial shock, it and I spent a long time watching one another, I'm not really sure why, but the emu really interested me and I eventually gave it a name: Gopher due to its impotent irritation.
We went to the nocturnal house next, and I was surprised to find the multitude of small (palm sized) animals that hop, glide, and scamper around at night in Australia. For some reason, the preferred locomotion for most mammals in Australia is hopping! I don't know why, but there you have it! We got to see the ichidna too, they are the most....curious little fuzzies ever. Especially since they aren't actually fuzzy but prickly! However they are highly inquisitive animals and will come right up to the side of their pens to investigate their visitors. Helen at this point decided that we needed to go see the Seal Show, so we made a mad dash for the Seal Theater (inventive aren't they?) which was jam packed. The show was a riot, the seals were very well trained to entertain and it was even educational, again they showed off the caliber of the zoo. The seals even seemed to really be enjoying their interaction with the audience, the first seal actually screwed up and realized that it did and scrambled off stage! The poor thing was actually embarrassed! The trainers actually had to COAX the seal back out to finish the opening number...it was adorable.
By this point we were famished, and the eatery was right next door the theater, so we went in and purchased some sandwiches before making a failed escape. I say failed because it was then that we collided with the Asian elephant enclosure which ranks number two on my list of things I saw at the zoo. There was even a newborn (less than a year old) calf with them and it was amazing to watch how the herd (there were five adults) watched over the baby even when the mother wandered off to get watered (the handlers got a hose and started spraying water at them). We again attempted to make our way down to the gondola, but detoured through another exhibit where I was scared shitless by a fake leopard! It sits in a tree above one enclosure and I thought it was real at first (it looks very convincing out of the corner of your eye). The tree was 20 feet in the air, the enclosure was only 10 feet high, you can understand why I jumped upon seeing a leopard up there and well beyond the fence. It was in this same enclosure that I saw two things: the ancestor of all modern chickens (why it is still extant I will never know) and a tapir. Here is my perception mix up, I always thought tapirs were the size of a hog or pig. They are not, they are the size of a small-mid sized bear. Freaking huge!
We finally (after navigating an atrium) made our way back to the gondola and rode it up again to retrieve our Koala Encounter picture, it's cute, the baby is scrambling up the tree in an attempt to get away from the four people crowding it. By this point the final two ferries were drawing near, so we tried to escape a final time, but got caught by the reptile house, which is just like every other reptile house I've ever been in and there was nothing really special (the frogs, as usual, looked like plastic toys) in the place....though they did have a model of a fully grown reticulated python, it was ten meters long and had a head wide enough to swallow me....vore fans rejoice?
Again we tried to escape, but our final trap lay in wait. The snow leopards. For those that do not know this, the snow leopard competes with the wolf as my favorite animal, ever since 7th grade when I had to do an in depth report (I actually went to a few zoos in addition to writing letters to talk to animal handlers about them) on them. These two were adorable, and I didn't even realize why until later. At first they just did what most big cats do, laze about (the lions we saw earlier did the same thing and yes, there are animals I'm not mentioning because otherwise this would be even longer!). However after a few moments one of them got up and joined the second, which promptly stood up and they switched places. Literally one went to where the other had been and vice versa. It was really odd. After a few moments more they joined each other under the waterfall and snuggled! It was very cute, then all hell broke loose as they began wrestling, growling, and leaping (one of them ran ten feet up one side of the enclosure from a sitting position) much to our delight and we very nearly missed the ferry thanks to them.
More than the koalas and elephants, the snow leopards made my day. I was in blissful pleasure watching them frolic. It was about this time that I looked up and realized why they were so boisterous. They were kittens! Barely two years old (a snow leopard will stay with their parents for about three years) and were from the same litter (average litter 1-2). The mother was now in France, while the father was in a zoo further south....and shit I can't remember the name...Melbourne! There we go. We rushed to the ferry and began a reverse trip of our earlier cruise, this time however I did not stick my head out the window, no, I stood out in front on the deck of the ferry and felt the sea spray and loved every moment as the ferry skimmed across the waves. I only came in when it began to rain, and then not before it really started raining. Once back in Darling Harbor we went to a market called Pady's Market, which amazed me. In the basement of this old (Industrial Revolution era) warehouse building is this massive bazaar filled with stalls with everything from fruit and other produce to fake Luis Vitton bags and Aborigine art work. The most astounding part of this place was that the upper three stories of the building were taken up by a modern mall! It was a mash of two distinct cultures that I found enriching and intoxicating, I could have stayed there for hours exploring but it was closing when we got there so I only had a handful of minutes.
We had dinner, Helen and Jill went out to the Christmas concert (which was apparently very disappointing while I stayed in our room and watched the fireworks over the harbor. Dinner by the way, was had at a pub that Helen frequents, it was a really nice little joint just a few blocks from the hotel. The next morning, I again woke first and set out with the intent of catching breakfast and then going to the maritime museum. I ended up arriving before it opened, so I wandered outside (this was when you called me Jala) examining the various ships tied up there. The museum was free, but if you wanted to go on the ships you had to pay. I found, out back of the museum a wall that was about a half mile long I believe, on which family names are scrawled, they are the names of various families that have immigrated to Australia since it was first settled in 1788. It was fascinating to read their stories and really drove home that, even more so than America, Australia is an amalgamation of dozens of cultures all fused together to create a fascinating country.
When the museum finally opened I wandered inside and aside from the guards and guides was the only one there. I saw a light house from the 1800s that was six meters tall, went through the immigrants exhibit, went inside a mock up of an Australian submarine before looking through the rest of the Australian Navy exhibit, I discovered that until the early and mid eighties Australia had carriers, I never knew! Finally I found the US Navy exhibit and learned (remember those two warships that spurred the construction of Fort Dennison?) of the extensive relationship between Australia and the US Navy, not the US, but the Navy of the US. It was fascinating, but apparently the US Navy is basically a celebrity in Australia which is really fascinating in and of itself. I went back to the hotel and got dressed and ready for our plane trip, the real riot? We spent four hours at the airport for no reason and ended up going back to the hotel! That night we explored the extensive parks and fountains around our hotel before having an improvised dinner at the Harborside (a mall on the harbor) foot court.
The thing was though, I was DELIGHTED that we didn't get a flight back! It meant that I had one more day to go to the aquarium! I woke up early, and RAN over to the aquarium, bought a ticket, and spent the entire morning there and loved every second of it! This has taken me over an hour to write, so I'm going to try wrapping it up finally...if you're still reading this...wow, you've got stamina. At the aquarium I saw my first platypus, and found out another perception goof, I'd always thought them to be the size of a house cat. They are not, they are the size of my foot, about 30cm. There was also a very grumpy looking fish all alone in a tank, and I felt bad for it, then I read the label: "This fish is highly territorial and WILL KILL ANYTHING that enters its territory." I didn't feel so bad after that. I stumbled across the salt water crocodile and learned two things: 1, the salty is the croc that is the basis for the Peter Pan monster that haunts Captain Hook and 2, the largest salties are 7 meters long! Just to give you an idea of how big that is, that is larger than most shark species (the Great White doesn't even get that big). I wandered through more the of aquarium (I was shocked to find that despite outside appearances it is a massive place, and easily as good as Monterey or Sea World) and found the Dugons! They are the Asian cousins of the Manatees that are found in Florida and along the Gulf Coast.
They were adorable to say the least, I spent a good half hour watching them frolic in their enclosure (there was a bubble tunnel that let you go underwater and see them). It was really enchanting to watch them swim and play with each other and it pained me to leave. The next bubble tube I found was even better though, sharks and rays! And I was in for another perception shock, stingrays are not all the size of a dinner platter, there were two monsters in this tank that were the size of an armchair. The sign on the tunnel read thus: "This acrylic glass makes these animals look 25% smaller than their actual size....." So that means, these things were even bigger than they appeared. Their barbs were three feet long! If you were stung by one, the barb itself would kill you regardless of the venom (I also learned that until Steve Irwin was killed by a stingray the last recorded deaths by ray were in 1945 and 1938).
The rest of the aquarium passed very nicely, it was all very beautiful and when I came out my only regret was that I'd forgotten my camera! I went back to the hotel, finished packing and changed once more. Off we went to the airport, and I enjoyed a good three hours of conversation with my seat mate who had grown up in Alabama, served in the Navy, and now worked for Lockheed Martin and lived in Germany. All in all, this was probably one of the most fulfilling trips that I have ever taken that was not to visit relatives or friends. I will be cherishing it for years to come, and I wish I could share the experience with a few people next time I go.
Shit, now I've only got four hours of sleep to go, AGAIN, and I have my tutoring session today...crap, off to bed I say!